Saturday, March 24, 2012

Day 78 - Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka, formerly known as Ceylon is a country of 220 million people who live on a small island resulting in 300 people per square kilometer.  Our tour involved a 2 hour each way bus trip to an Elephant Orphanage.  When we got off the ship, dancers greeted us!




The country has a history of many many other invaders who conquered and ruled.  Recently they have suffered from a civil war sparked by the Tamil Tigers which is over, although there is still unrest in the north.  Eighty percent of the population is Buddhist.  The Tamil's are Hindu and there is a small Catholic population as well.   The British introduced  tea and coffee and rubber - all of which remain in large plantations and each provide a large revenue stream for their economy.  We saw coconut palm and rubber plantations enroute.  The coconut palm is called the tree of life and when a family builds a home, this is the first thing they plant.   The number of products that are produced from this one tree is prodigious: thatch, baskets, rope, coconut milk, coconut, coconut water, to name a few.  






There are 500 species of birds on the island, 200 of which migrate here annually.  The 200 stay here because if you draw a line south from this country there is no land.  There are over 20 varieties of snakes, 5 of whom are lethal like cobra's and vipers (yikes!). 

There are 22 varieties of bananas, and we saw lots of pineapples, durian, watermelon,  and papayas for sale along the road.  As for tea, there is high ground  black tea with milk and without milk varieties, low ground, green, and gold and silver tip (very expensive).  They are also famous for their gemstones, which are one of the major exports. 






Colombo, our port is a typical port town and it is not the capital.  It has a colonial past and that is evident in some of the port buildings, although they are long past their heyday.  The port itself is a large container port and one of the largest container ships we have ever seen was docked.  

We went on a private tour today of the elephants!  Although our tour bus didn't gain admittance to the port area so we had to walk about 2 miles to the port gate! Luckily, there was a random white van who offered to drive us tot he gate for $1.00 per person. I was eager to get into the van because there  were armed guards at the entrance on the rooftops. 


While we had seen a lot of poverty in Vietnam, it was even more evident here with true shanty towns just outside of the port entrance along the railway tracks.  In spite of the poverty our impression was of great industry - a lot of people working manually at repairs of every kind - mechanical, home repairs, new construction.  But is all elementary and rough.  It is still, from what we can see a country of small mom and pop businesses.  We saw a lot of lumber yards which ranged from ones with no visible organization to better, but all the wood was rough sawn, not finished.   Our guide told us that in an attempt to kickstart the economy, the government, a few years ago, had offered international businesses free land and infrastructure if they would establish their businesses here.  They could in addition take all profits and dividends out of the country.  The only goal was to get employment for their young people.  Many international apparel manufacture brands have located here.  We think they employ children, even though education is compulsory.  Literacy is 95%.  






The guide said there were two major roads, which by the way are mostly populated by tuk tuks, these 3 wheeled taxi vehicles that weave madly in and out of larger traffic.  The roads were paid for by the world bank which tells you how terrible the economy has been and still is.  




Once we were out of the city, we saw a lush, green jungle environment.  Great towering palms, large canopied flowering trees were everywhere.  Rice is the number one crop which is vital for food and  we saw lots of rice paddies with water buffalo.   Ever so often we passed through villages which were really just groupings of small stands along the side of the road, selling their wares.  Each village seemed to specialize - baskets and what appeared to be really elegant and beautiful bamboo furniture, a town of hardware shops,  a village of pineapples and strangely a village of children's blow up water toys.   I am convinced that the most profitable small business is bridal shops as there were a vast number of them and billboards advertising them.  The contrast of the exquisite brides, elaborately dressed and made up contrasted with the poverty in a strange way.  








We saw a funeral procession as we drove down the road. They laid white cloths down and the people walked behind them carrying flowers and the casket.





The most striking thing was how friendly the people were - as we flew through these villages people and children waved and smiled and when we stopped for traffic they signaled for me to take their picture.  They are a particularly attractive people.  

 






The elephants were the highlight of the day.  There are African elephants who have larger ears and only the males have tusks and Indian elephants who have smaller ears and both male and females can have tusks, but only 3% do.   The orphanage was started in the 1990's.  In Sri Lanka an elephant may kill a man, but a man may not kill an elephant.  If he does it is a 10 years prison term.  If an elephant ruins a person's farm, the government provides compensation.    This orphanage has evolved into a breeding station.  Until this place was established elephants never bred in captivity, but now they do.  The female chooses who to mate with, and only mates with one male.  Males who do not mate often become rogue and can go on rampages. 

I loved this tour! Once we arrived we saw an elephant bathing in the water.  There were about 8 elephants roaming around.  There was an elephant right in the middle of the path as we walked into the orphanage.  Their trunks felt weird - wet and really rough and they really do use it to explore and smell you.  They were so gentle and curious with us.  






Eating Bananas!


Then we were able to ride on an elephant! It was the coolest experience!  Although it almost feels as if you are going to fall off of the elephant because of the way that they walk. When their legs are moving, it feels as if you are moving alot from side to side!  








Afterwards, they took the elephant into the water where it cooled itself off with the water. 






We were able to go into the water to wash the elephant and just hang out beside it!  






At the museum, I got to hold an Elephant's tooth and leg bone!!!




Then we went to a magnificent temple! There were tons of people there and everyone was dressed in white.  I stood out like a sore thumb in my black but everyone smiled as we walked through the area.  We saw them offering water to the Buddha tree, giving offerings around the base of the tree and to the statues, lighting incense, burning candles, and praying. 




















Inside the one temple, beautiful statues and paintings covered the walls. In the one room, an enormous laying buddha was honored with people praying and offering flowers.  





Outside the temple, the grounds were filled with more people, offerings, and other temples.





It was a 2 1/2 drive back to the city, the countryside was again amazing to see!  Today was a great day!

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