Friday, April 13, 2012

Day 98 - The Amalfi Coast

"Andiamo"  - Let's go - an often heard turn of phrase in Italy!

We arrived in Naples and decided to spend the day along the Amalfi Coast!  We made our way through the very crowded, poor city of Napoli out to the wonder of Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, he village of Amalfi, Positano, and Pariano, and Ravello.   


Napoli, or Naples , or what we saw of it, is a port city, and a large sprawling one.  The architecture is uninspired, mostly consisting of poured concrete box apartments and buildings of 4 or 5 stories, that reflects the hard scrabble life these people have had.  Sprinkled in was the odd old but rundown building from a former, more wealthy era.  The colors are siennas, and oranges, and pale yellow's, which help the eyes, but there was nothing that we saw to draw the eye or heart into staying.  We've heard so much about the garbage in this city, and we did see evidence of lots of abandoned tires and garbage under the underpasses.  One thing that stood out for sure in a very positive way, was that every inch of spare land, around the apartment buildings is used to grow vegetables.  And it is spring here.  Gardens had 3 foot high peas, green onions, lettuce already evident, and new leaves on trees, and blossoms too.   One plant that I have seen in Greece and Italy is great hanging bunches of blue wisteria, over walls, balconies, and homemade shelters. The other hallmark of the landscape is the umbrella shaped pine trees. 

We drove along the scenic Sorrentine peninsula, along the Bay of Naples with the view of Mt. Vesuvius in the background to the enchanting village of Sorrento.  






We passed the legendary Mount Vesuvius that buried Pompeii and all its citizens so many many years ago.  This volcano is still active, and the ash it has dispersed for so many years provides rich minerals to the soil and therefore has provided the people with the ability to grow extremely great fruit and vegetables that are highly prized in Italy.  They are most famous in this area for lemons and oranges, chestnuts and walnuts, and of course olives.  There are literally millions of lemon trees everywhere.  They are also renowned for their buffalo mozzarella cheese made from the local water buffalo who originated in India.  They are believed to have arrived here via Alexander the Great.  Of course they make ricotta cheese too.  

Sorrento and the other places we stopped along the Amalfi coast are towns or villages which are built literally on the steep slopes of a high, rocky, seemingly impenetrable,  landscape that is marked by deep valleys slashing the mountains around every corner. Amalfi is even steeper and hanging more precipitously than Sorrento, which is set back on a little plateau.   The guide told us how the early people, struggled to seek out a living, carved garden terraces in what seems to be impossible landscapes, from great heights  down to the sea, where the fish were.  The roads into this area consist of about 5 or 6 different levels of switchbacks.  Homes are built on homes, upon homes, hanging out over the sea.  It is stunning to come around a corner and see these sights.  On the sea side, the drop is right beside your bus window and every turn provides yet another breathtaking view.  This is my third time to Sorrento and each time I love it more and more!  The village is brimming with character and overflowing with picturesque street scenes and charming people!  There are streets filled with collections of woodwork, mosaics, furniture, embroidery and porcelain.  The town itself was everything that the little gemstones of italian towns are - gorgeous little buildings,  and cobbled streets, We walked down a small pedestrian side street and to the water front to view the amazing water from above!  Then we stopped at a bakery for some cappuccino and a delicious pastry.  













We then continued along the Amalfi coast to Positano.  In order to get to Positiano, you have to be a car or less than 10 people van, because the streets are very narrow.  The car actually could only get you part way down, then the rest is by walking.  Once in the town, there was street after narrow street to explore! Tiny little cobblestone alleyways and steep steps jutted from the main street. I loved exploring Positano.






Next we were off to the village of Amalfi.  Wow!  You walk into the main square through an arch way and the city opens up to a beautiful main square.  I couldn't stop taking pictures of the famous cathedral St. Andreas and all the small little streets.  Little shops were selling the very famous Limoncello which is made here as well as some other delicious pastries.  


















More scenic driving!











Then we went to the village of Ravello, which was another gem!  More tiny streets and tiny shops, it was another amazing location!








Our way back to the ship was to climb high up the mountain roads, then over the back of them through a national forest where they have an experiment to grow chestnut and walnut trees as a heating source.  They don't let the trees grow too big, and we saw bundles of what we would consider kindling being harvested.  













Back to our ship home and off to Ajaccio, Corsica, France - a port a day!!  

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